Maragogipe appeared in Brazil in the 1870s. Its unusually large beans stop the eye before the cup reaches the table.
It belongs among the rare beans: a box or two when the sample, ground and handling line up.
The opposite of Caturra
Maragogipe and Caturra are the same kind of accident pointed in opposite directions. Each is a single dominant gene altering the scale of the plant: Caturra shortens the internodes of a Bourbon until the tree is small enough to crowd together, while Maragogipe enlarges every part of a Típica, beans, leaves and the spaces between nodes alike. The beans run thirty to forty per cent above a standard arabica.
The spelling follows the Bahian town. Maragogype appears too and is not wrong; the house keeps one and stays with it.
Why there is never much
It is a tall, low-yielding tree, susceptible to Leaf rustHemileia vastatrix, la roya: the fungus that strips arabica of its leaves. Colombia's breeding programme exists to resist it, which is why Castillo and Tabi carry Timor Hybrid lines.More →, nematodes and coffee berry disease, and it wants less feeding than most, which sounds like a virtue until set against how little it returns. World Coffee Research calls it highly unproductive and points growers at Pacamara instead.
One figure runs the other way: the cherry-to-green outturn is very high, which offsets some of the per-tree loss and is worth raising when a price is being discussed. It stays a rare lot here because the economics make it one, not because scarcity sells.
31 prize lots: NZ$44 to NZ$269 a kilo.
Source: Cup of Excellence, Stats NZ · 2023
- Alliance for Coffee Excellence, public results
- Stats NZ, CC BY 4.0
- FRED exchange rates, public domain
Prize lots: Cup of Excellence, Colombia's national competition, where the top-scoring green coffee beans are sold at an online auction. Winning bids in Colombia, before shipping, at each year's average exchange rate.
Everyday green coffee beans: the average value of green coffee beans imported into New Zealand from Colombia that year, with freight and insurance, before GST.